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Water Waves

المؤلف:  GEORGE A. HOADLEY

المصدر:  ESSENTIALS OF PHYSICS

الجزء والصفحة:  p-194

2025-11-16

688

of small amplitude are, as a whole, similar to those produced by transverse vibrations in a stretched cord. The particles of the water, however, move in small circles or ellipses, while the wave moves onward. This can be observed by watching the motion of a boat at a distance from the shore; the boat rises and falls with the waves, but does not advance with them. Near the shore the velocity of the wave below the surface is retarded by the sloping bottom and the outgoing water, so that the top of the wave curls over, forming a breaker, which moves in the direction of the wave.